797 Tomorrows : A Peace Corps Blog: Day 28: Capitals

“For those who are lost, there will always be cities that feel like home.”

– Simon Van Booy

Fun fact: at least four different sites in Guatemala have, at various times, served as the capital city: Iximché (out of which the Spanish were driven by the Maya), Ciudad Vieja (destroyed by a flood), Antigua (destroyed by an earthquake), and Guatemala City (the current capital…for now). I know very little about Ciudad Vieja, but I’ve now had the good fortune to visit the other three sites.

I spent last weekend on vacation from my host site, bumbling around Antigua with nine other volunteers. We were all excited to be in a place with an actual grocery store, with restaurants containing more than two tables, and where it is societally acceptable to share stories over a beer. But the highlight of the trip was definitely a hike up Cerro de la Cruz, a jungle-treed hill overlooking both the valley in which Antigua sits and the volcano on the edge of the city. I’ll let the picture speak for itself:

Cerro de la Cruz, over Antigua

It’s also worth mentioning that Antigua gave me my first taste of Guatemalan nightlife (in our sites, we’re not allowed to be outside after dark, and are anyway too exhausted to go out). My fellow trainees and I visited three different bars/clubs, all filled with pumping music, grinding Guatemaltecos, and cheap drinks. It was an interesting experience to see another side of the usually conservative Guatemalan culture, but it really wasn’t my scene. I would have been much happier chatting to the other trainees in a quiet café. NERD.

Moving right along in our tour of capitals, three days ago all the trainees met up in Iximché (now a Mayan ruin site) for a traditional Mayan ceremony. The ruins were beautiful, but seeing them made me feel strangely sad. I think it had to do with the fact that the Mayan people, once the rulers of Guatemala, are now among the most disadvantaged Guatemalans.

The ruins of Iximché

The ceremony itself was really cool. We were all assigned a nahual, or a Mayan inner spirit, beforehand, based on our birth date. Nahuals are similar to zodiac signs, but there are twenty of them, and they’re crazy complicated. I’m a Kan, also known as the feathered serpent, the quetzal. It’s a symbol of creation, justice, truth, peace, and wisdom, all of which sound very impressive, and also of “sexual magic,” which sounds kind of intimidating. Kans are northern spirits, which meant that I had to stand on the northern side of the altar during the ceremony. Then, when the Mayan elder (for lack of a better term) gave thanks to Kan, I was given multiple candles and resin discs to scatter on the fire.

Speaking of fire, the ceremony was basically a pyromaniac’s fantasy. The elder spent the entire 90 minutes murmuring thanks under her breath and pouring various things on the central fire: resin, candles, sugar, honey, vodka, beer, water, tobacco, chocolate, dirt, flowers, seeds, etc. I’m not usually one for religious rites, but I have to admit that I found some peace and happiness listening to her ecstatic thank-yous and watching the differently colored candles dissolve into nothing.

Some of the materials for the ceremony

And now, you will see that I have tricked you, because I’m not going to describe Guatemala City at all! I only passed through it briefly, just after landing in Guatemala, although the other trainees and I are scheduled to take a trip there this week (I’ll keep you posted). Instead, I’m going to tell you about a place that has my vote for next capital: the Parque Ecológico at the summit of Monte Magdalena (this may not be its actual name…it wasn’t exactly labeled, and my guide book tragically makes no mention of this national treasure).

Anywho, yesterday, after diligently washing all my “ropa interior” (I don’t know why there is no word for underwear here), I set off on a hike with two other trainees. We first climbed to the neighboring town, Magdalena, then scaled the local mountain. It was a strenuous 90-minute climb, but it was more than worth it. The summit rewarded us with amazing views of Guatemala, multiple rough-hewn picnic tables, and these crazy metal swings, apparently for small children, with remarkable swing radii. We also got to feast on papaya and pineapple, which is just something you can do whenever you so desire here.

Signing off for now; sending you happy thoughts of exotic fruit.