Friday, July 3, 2015

Day 280: Visitors!

"If you come at four in the afternoon, I'll begin to be happy by three.”                                                                                                      - Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, The Little Prince



As per usual, I’m a little behind in my blogging.  I’m sorry that my last real post—that one really negative one—has been my only written update for so long.  However, the lack of bloggery actually has a really good explanation: my service seems to have turned around, at least for the moment.  The last two months have been incredibly busy, incredibly productive, and incredibly happy.  I feel like I’m finally finding my niche in Guatemala.

The first step in this rather dramatic turnaround was a much-needed visit from home.  On April 25, my 271st day in Guatemala, after weeks spent counting down the days and a veritable gestation period of Peace Corps service, my parents flew in from Minneapolis.  And even though I don’t want this blog to be a giant brag about international travel, this post is kind of going to be just that.  I’ll try to let the pictures do most of the talking.

Ann’s Top Ten…er, Twelve…Steps for Parental Integration

1. Take the chicken bus from the lakeside town of Panajachel up a curving mountain path.  Enjoy the soothing sounds of a one-armed hawker trying to sell single-tablespoon servings of JELL-O.

2. Sip on fine Guatemalan coffee at a quiet Sololá café (this actually isn’t a very Guatemalan experience.  Almost all good Guatemalan coffee is exported, which means that most of the coffee available in Guatemalan cafés is of the instant variety.  But, having the advantage of the Q7.50:$1.00 exchange rate, my parents and I were able to splurge for real, good Guatemalan coffee).

3. Make your way through the crowded Sololá streets on your way to the famed market.  Get shoved around by seemingly sweet old Mayan ladies,


marvel at strange animal body parts,


and treat yourself to some fresh mangoes dusted with salt and crushed pumpkin seeds.


4. Take a tuk-tuk (see picture) to your Mayan language teacher’s house.  Make awkwardly translated conversation, and exchange gifts and hugs.

The world's cleanest tuk-tuk (but really)
D'aww...look at that integration!
5. Take a micro (see first video blog) up the mountain to San José Chacayá.  Freak out a little when the driver vigorously scratches his head for about 10 minutes straight.

6. Visit the host family.  Make awkwardly translated conversation, and exchange gifts and hugs (seeing my host brother hug my mom after being given toys from America (but really from Vietnam) was enough to make even my hardened gringa heart melt a little).

My host mom and me (I'm the one on the left)
7. Walk into town, and enjoy lunch at the local comedor (basically a little meal factory run by a hard-working Guatemalan woman and two assistants).  For Q15, or about $2, you get one of the set meals of the day: fried chicken/roasted chicken/steak with rice, tortillas, side salad, and the beverage of your choice.  You can opt for either agua pura (drinkable water) or agua Pepsi (soda).  Yeah, they call soda “water” here.

8. Visit tourist mecca San José Chacayá’s hottest sites: the health center and the church.

9. Micro yourself back down the mountain, and chicken bus yourself back to Panajachel.  Lament the absence of the one-armed hawker.

10. Find, purchase, and consume dry-roasted fava beans (I highly recommend Googling these, and/or ordering some from nuts.com, which is actually a real website).


11. Embark on a street food adventure for dinner.  For us, this meant pupusas, an El Salvadoran treat of corn tortillas stuffed with cheese or meat and fried on an oil-covered stovetop.  They’re generally served with a delicious side salad of pickled and spiced cabbage, carrots, and jalapeños.

12. Congratulate yourself on fully understanding and integrating into a foreign culture.  Er…not.  But I do love that my parents were willing to try such outlandish new experiences, and risk their bowel happiness on delicious street food.

The above list is a description of just one of the eight wonderful days I got to spend with my parents.  I don’t want to bore you with a description of each day, but I will give you a few more highlights of the trip:

Quest for Tortillas: I think I’ve mentioned before that corn tortillas are the staple food here in Guatemala; and there’s no better way to enjoy them than hot off the griddle at a tortilleria, or tortilla stand.  On my parents’ second day in country, we walked to the small town near our treehouse hostel with the express purpose of finding a tortilleria.  Sadly, the town was so small that it didn’t have a tortilleria (a first in my experience).  I asked a local woman if she could point us to the nearest tortilla procurement facility, at which point she led us up the stairs of her house.  Many Guatemalan women make their own tortillas at home, and our new friend had a fresh batch.  She wouldn’t accept payment for her tortillas, so my parents got to experience both authentic Guatemalan cooking and the pervasive Guatemalan hospitality.


Watching Survivor: I don’t need you to tell me this is sad.  I know it’s sad that I’ve been watching Survivor since Season 1 (we’re now on Season 30), and I know it’s sad that I count watching Survivor as one of the highlights of my parents’ visit.  But, watching English-speaking television for the first time in months, with my parents, and happening to stumble upon one of my favorite shows—all of this was a poignant reminder of home.

A Perspective Change: My parents’ awe for Guatemala really served to reawaken a similar awe in me.  After living in this country for about nine months, I had grown accustomed to the beautiful vistas and friendly culture.  I had stopped appreciating these things, and instead was focusing my thoughts on what’s wrong with Guatemala, or why living here is hard.  When my dad told me that he saw more smiling faces in Guatemala than he had ever seen in the U.S., I realized, Yeah.  Guatemalans, despite often having harder lives than I can imagine living, are pretty happy.  It was time for me to pull myself out of my self-pity party, and start seeing the beauty of this country, and my service, once again.  Thanks, Mom and Dad!